Odawara, Hakone, Fujiyoshida & Nagoya: Castles, Onsen, Fuji

On days six and seven of my 20-Day Japan adventure, I explored Odawara, Hakone, Fujiyoshida, and Nagoya—visiting Odawara’s historic castle, relaxing in a Hakone onsen with Mount Fuji views, marvelling at Fujiyoshida’s iconic Chureito Pagoda, and wrapping up with a cultural stop in Nagoya.

This post covers the amazing stretch between Tokyo and Kyoto. To get the whole experience, don’t miss my other guides: Tokyo 4-Day Itinerary: Best Things to Do & See and The Best of Kyoto in 3 Days for all the must-see spots and insider tips.

And, in case you need some practical information about the country, read my article, Japan Tourist Information. It includes details about money, when to go, how long to stay, transportation options, some interesting facts, and more.

Here is the list of everything you will find in this article:

A. Odawara, Hakone, Fujiyoshida & Nagoya: MAP

Here is the map of my two-day itinerary for visiting Odawara, Hakone, Fujiyoshida and Nagoya. Each day is colour-coded and numbered to indicate the order in which the sites are to be visited.

B. Odawara, Hakone, Fujiyoshida & Nagoya: ITINERARY

1. Odawara

Odawara (小田原市), situated in Kanagawa Prefecture, is a charming city nestled between the mountains and the sea, known for its reconstructed Odawara Castle, which offers visitors a glimpse into Japan’s feudal history.

This place was once a stronghold for the powerful Hojo clan during the Sengoku period. Nowadays, it’s a great escape from Tokyo, offering a wealth of historical sites, stunning coastal views, and access to nearby Hakone’s renowned hot springs.

To get to Odawara from Tokyo, I took the Kodama Shinkansen, which is covered by the JR Pass.

💺Transport: Travel smart with a JR Pass or Regional pass—book through my link and start exploring Japan with ease and savings!

After arriving at Odawara Station, I picked up a rental car for a one-day trip to explore Hakone and visit the iconic Chureito Pagoda in Fujiyoshida.

I chose to rent a car just for the day to save time—while Japan’s public transportation is excellent, the connections to the specific places I wanted to visit weren’t very convenient.

If you’re thinking about renting a car in Japan, be sure to check out my post, Car Rentals (Complete Guide), to avoid any surprises along the way.

🚗 Car Rentals: Explore Japan at your own pace by using Discover Cars or Auto Europe to compare reliable car rental providers. You can also compare car rental prices on Kayak.

Odawara Castle

Odawara Castle (小田原城) is only a 10-minute walk from Odawara Station.

It’s a historic fortress in Kanagawa Prefecture, initially built in the 15th century and later expanded by the Hojo clan, one of Japan’s most powerful samurai families. 

The castle played a key role in the Sengoku period before falling to Toyotomi Hideyoshi in 1590. Today, it boasts a reconstructed keep, a museum of samurai artefacts, and scenic gardens with cherry blossoms in spring.

There’s also a so-called “ninja museum” on the premises, but it’s not a traditional museum—it’s more of an interactive attraction geared toward families with kids. So, not for me!

🕘 Opening times: 09:00 to 17:00

🎟️ Tickets cost between ¥200 and ¥610, but the gardens are free of charge.

After exploring the castle and its gardens, I drove less than 15 minutes to Hakone for lunch. I ended up settling for a quick bite (nothing worth recommending 😅), mainly because parking was almost impossible to find!

2. Hakone

Hakone (箱根) is a city in the Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park, just west of Tokyo. It is renowned for its proximity to Mount Fuji, its stunning scenery, and its numerous onsen (traditional Japanese hot springs or spas).

Hakone Shrine

Hakone Shrine (箱根神社), founded in 757, is located at the foot of Mount Hakone by Lake Ashinoko. It has long been a place of pilgrimage for military commanders and travellers seeking safe journeys. 

A path leads from the lake’s torii gate (Torii of Peace 箱根権現社船参道鳥居) through the forest to the main building, which is surrounded by tall trees.

The shrine is stunning year-round, especially when enveloped in mist (It wasn’t the case when I went, but I’ve seen pictures).

Hakone Shrine is revered as a deity of good fortune and luck. It is also home to an ancient cedar tree known as the Ansan cedar, which symbolises prayers for the prosperity of future generations.

To the right of the main shrine is the Nine-Headed Dragon Shrine, called Shingu.

🕒 Shrine Grounds: Open 24 hours a day.

🏛️ Treasure Hall: Open from 9:00 AM to 4:00 PM, with an admission fee of ¥500.

Mount Fuji Views

Mount Fuji is Japan’s most iconic landmark, standing at 3,776 metres—the tallest peak in the country. Its last eruption was in 1707, and it was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2013 for its cultural and spiritual significance.

Seeing it in person was truly breathtaking, especially at sunrise. 😍

Ōwakudani

Ōwakudani (大涌谷) is the area surrounding the crater formed during Mount Hakone’s last major eruption, roughly 3,000 years ago.

Today, this still-active volcanic zone—often called the “Valley of Hell”—is one of the most fascinating places to visit in the region. It’s known for its sulfurous steam vents, hot springs, and boiling rivers, creating a dramatic and otherworldly landscape.

✳️ Food to try in Hakone:

Kurotamago (クロタマゴ), or black eggs, are a local speciality unique to Ōwakudani—and a must-try snack while you’re there. The eggs are first carefully boiled in the naturally hot spring waters, which gives their shells a striking black colour. According to local legend, eating just one is said to add seven years to your life!

I stayed at Hotel Green Plaza Hakone during my visit, and I highly recommend it, especially for the stunning views of Mount Fuji from the onsen (spa). It was the perfect mix of relaxation, great food, and convenience for exploring the area.

If you’re planning a trip to Hakone, you can book your stay here through Booking.com —at no extra cost to you, and it helps support my blog!

There I am—bright (😂) and way too early at 5 am—already buzzing with excitement for a peaceful soak in the onsen!

Watching the steam rise as I relaxed in the outdoor hot spring, with Mount Fuji standing majestically in the distance, was truly unforgettable.

⚠️ Note: Onsen baths are separated by gender, and you’ll need to clean yourself first at the shower stations before soaking in the nude. Also, remember – no swimming or splashing around, just relax and soak! 😉

3. Fujiyoshida

Today, I had an early start to head to Fujiyoshida (富士吉田市) and visit the iconic Chureito Pagoda. You might not recognise the name, but chances are you’ve seen the view—it’s one of the most famous photo spots of Mount Fuji, with the red pagoda perfectly framed against the mountain.

Of course, the downside of being that famous is that it’s almost always crowded, which is why I made it a point to leave early.

The drive from my hotel took about an hour, but if you’re using public transport, make sure to allow extra time—connections can be slower and less direct.

Chureito Pagoda

Chureito Pagoda (忠霊塔) is located within Arakura Sengen Park in Fujiyoshida, near Mount Fuji, and is part of the historic Arakura Sengen Shrine. Built in 1966 as a memorial to peace for those who died in World War II, this striking five-story pagoda sits atop a hill, accessible by climbing 398 steps.

On a clear day, the view from the top offers one of Japan’s most iconic scenes: Mount Fuji rising behind the pagoda, often framed by cherry blossoms in spring or vibrant foliage in autumn. It’s a popular spot year-round, so be prepared for large crowds, especially during peak seasons.

Even though I visited at the beginning of cherry blossom season, the trees hadn’t fully bloomed yet due to a particularly harsh winter. Still, they had just started to open up, giving a little sneak peek of what was to come! 😲

The silver lining? I got to see Mount Fuji with snow-covered slopes—a breathtaking sight in itself 🤩

After this fantastic experience, it was time to return to Odawara Station to return the car rental and take the Tokaido Shinkansen (covered by the JR Pass) to Nagoya Station.

4. Nagoya

With a population of 2.3 million, Nagoya (名古屋) is Japan’s fourth-largest city, serving as a significant industrial and cultural hub. Often referred to as the “Detroit of Japan,” Nagoya boasts a rich industrial heritage deeply rooted in the automotive industry. It’s home to global giants such as Toyota, Lexus, Mitsubishi, and Denso, as well as numerous key suppliers and manufacturers.

Beyond the industry, Nagoya impresses with its vibrant cityscape, featuring bustling shopping districts such as Sakae and Nagoya Station, which are packed with modern malls and entertainment venues. For stunning panoramic views, it has landmarks like the Nagoya TV Tower and the Sky Promenade.

Nagoya Castle

Nagoya Castle (名古屋城) is a historic must-see, boasting beautiful gardens and exhibits that bring the city’s rich history to life. Initially constructed by the Tokugawa shogunate in the early 1600s, the castle has been destroyed and rebuilt several times over the centuries.

One of its most iconic features is the pair of golden shachihoko—mythical fish with tiger heads—that adorn the roof. These striking 18-carat gold ornaments sit proudly at the gable ends, symbolising protection against fire and disaster.

Personally, though, I think they resemble dragon heads more than tigers…

🕘 It is open from 9:00 – 16:30 (last admission at 16h). But the Castle Tower is currently closed.

Historic Townscapes of Shikemichi

Halfway between Nagoya Castle and the station lies the Historic Townscape of Shikemichi (指家道), a charming street dating back to the Edo period.

Initially used by travellers and merchants to connect different parts of the city, today it’s lined with traditional wooden buildings—including quaint single-family homes and kura warehouses—nestled along the picturesque Horikawa River.

Osu Shotengai Shopping Street

Osu Shopping Street is Nagoya’s most iconic shopping area, known for its mix of tradition and trend.

With over 1,200 shops selling everything from vintage clothes to street food, and its location near the historic Ōsu Kannon Temple, it’s a vibrant spot where culture and fashion meet. Perfect for browsing, snacking, and people-watching, Osu is a must for any Nagoya itinerary.

Other Places to See in Nagoya

If you have extra time in Nagoya, there are plenty of fascinating sights and experiences to explore:

a. Nagoya City Science Museum

Opened in 1962, this museum features one of the world’s largest planetariums. It has three main sections: modern technology, life sciences, and general science. It offers a wide range of interactive, hands-on exhibits that make learning enjoyable for all ages.

b. Toyota-Related Attractions

As one of Nagoya’s most iconic companies, Toyota offers several museums and showrooms where you can dive into its history and cutting-edge innovations:

• Toyota Commemorative Museum of Industry and Technology
• Toyota Automobile Museum
• Toyota Kaikan Museum
• Toyota Museum of World History
• Toyota Showrooms and Concept Car Displays

c. Atsuta-Jingu Shrine

This is Japan’s second most important Shinto shrine and is home to the legendary Sacred Sword Kusanagi-no-Tsurugi. According to tradition, the gods gave this sword to the sun goddess Amaterasu. A visit here offers a deep spiritual and historical experience.

d. Osu Kannon Temple

Dating back to the Kamakura Period (1192–1333), this famous Buddhist temple was relocated by Tokugawa Ieyasu in 1612 to avoid flooding. Its main object of worship is a wooden statue of Kannon, the goddess of mercy, carved by the revered Kobo Daishi. Beneath the main hall lies the Shinpukuji Library, housing over 15,000 classic texts. Don’t miss the lively flea market held on the 18th and 28th of each month on the temple grounds.

e. SCM Maglev & Railway Park

Opened in 2011, this museum showcases 39 full-size railway vehicles, a bus exhibit, train cab simulators, and detailed model railway dioramas. It’s a must-visit for train enthusiasts and anyone interested in the future of transportation technology.

f. Korankei Valley

Located near Nagoya, Korankei is famous as one of the best spots in the Chubu region to admire stunning autumn foliage—a truly natural spectacle.

g. Ghibli Park

A dream destination for fans of Studio Ghibli’s magical films, Ghibli Park offers immersive themed areas inspired by classics like My Neighbour Totoro and Spirited Away. Located within Aichi Prefecture near Nagoya, this unique park brings beloved animated worlds to life with beautifully crafted environments and attractions perfect for visitors of all ages.

To wrap up day seven, I took the Tokaido Shinkansen (included with the JR Pass) from Nagoya Station to Kyoto Station, where I spent the night to begin exploring Kyoto the following day.

I hope you enjoyed this post about Odawara, Hakone, Fujiyoshida, & Nagoya.

Don’t miss the next part of this fantastic trip: The Best of Kyoto in 3 days. 

👉 Or, go back to Japan’s full itinerary: Japan: 20-Day Itinerary with Cherry Blossoms & Top Cities.

C. Ready to Book your Trip?

To help you organise your adventure, I’ve gathered the best tools I use and recommend for booking flights, hotels, local transport and more. These links support this site at no extra cost to you.

Safe travels! 🌏✈️

D. More About Japan

Planning a trip to Japan? Here are some of my top posts to help you make the most of your journey – from detailed itineraries and cultural insights to city guides and unique experiences across the country.

⭐ Itineraries & City Guides

🗾🌸 Japan in 20 Days: Cherry Blossom Itinerary & Top Cities. Plan the perfect spring getaway with this 20-day itinerary covering Tokyo, Kyoto, Osaka, cherry blossoms, and essential travel tips.

🗼 Tokyo 4-Day Itinerary: Best Things to Do & See. Explore Tokyo’s must-visit attractions, neighbourhoods, street food, and cultural highlights in just four unforgettable days.

🚉 Kamakura & Yokohama: Day Trip from Tokyo. A perfect day trip from Tokyo to explore Kamakura’s temples and Yokohama’s scenic bayside – history, food, and coastal charm.

⛩️ The Best of Kyoto in 3 Days. Discover Kyoto’s top temples, gardens, and cultural sites in just three days – includes a downloadable map to guide you.

🍜 Sumo in Osaka, Tastes of Kobe & Highlights from Himeji & Okayama. Catch a sumo match, try Kobe beef, and explore some of Japan’s best castles in this fast-paced guide to western Japan.

📍 Hiroshima & Miyajima: Top Attractions. A must-read for first-timers – explore Hiroshima’s Peace Memorial Park and the stunning Itsukushima Shrine on Miyajima Island.

🏝️ Okinawa: What to See & Do. Planning a beach escape? Discover what to see, do, and know before visiting Okinawa, Japan’s tropical paradise.

⭐ Culture, Religion & Traditions

🧘 Koyasan: My Stay at a Buddhist Temple. Experience the peaceful world of Japanese Buddhism with a temple stay in Koyasan – meditation, monks, and morning prayers.

🙏 Temple Etiquette in Japan: What to Know Before You Visit. Visiting temples and shrines? Learn the dos and don’ts of temple etiquette to show respect during your spiritual visits.

☸️ Japanese Buddhism Made Simple. New to Buddhism? This beginner-friendly guide breaks down key beliefs and traditions in Japanese Buddhist culture.

🍀 Guide to Japanese Lucky Charms & Amulets. Curious about omamori, daruma, or maneki neko? Learn the meanings and traditions behind Japan’s most iconic charms.

⭐ Travel Tips & Cultural Insights

📌 Japan Tourist Information: What You Need to Know. Practical info every traveller should know – transport, money, customs, etiquette, and more to prepare you for your trip.

🚇 Practical Tokyo Guide for First-Time Visitors. Navigate Tokyo like a pro with this beginner-friendly guide to public transport, safety tips, and local etiquette.

📖 Kyoto Travel Guide: What to Know Before You Go. Everything you need for a smooth trip to Kyoto – from the best seasons to visit, how to get around, and local customs.

🌆 Osaka Travel Guide: What to Know Before You Go. When to go, how to get around, what to eat, and more – your go-to guide for Japan’s most vibrant foodie city.

Additional Information

You can also check my itineraries in Itineraries. Here, you’ll find them classified in City Guides and Country Guides.

Remember to check Cook up Your Trip. There, you will find everything you need to organise your trip from start to finish.

If you require any clarification, please feel free to leave a comment or complete the contact form. I will be happy to help you. 😊

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1. Por Morio – Own work, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=14662436 ↩︎
2. Por Bariston – Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=84262734 ↩︎